There are trips where everything goes to plan, and then there are trips like this one. We arrived at Istas Garden with a rough itinerary in our heads, a fridge full of Lidl supplies, and what we thought was a sensible route south. Within about 48 hours, Pedro and Claudia had dismantled every single bit of it. And honestly, it was the best thing that could have happened.
A Two-Michelin-Star Dinner and a Fish Restaurant You Need to Book Right Now
The wine tasting at Istas Garden is something else. Twice a week, Pedro runs a complimentary session for guests, and it is the kind of touch that makes you wonder why every campsite does not do this. Pink port, as it turns out, was only discovered about 18 years ago, and you serve it one part pink port to two parts tonic water. Lyndsay, who has never liked rosé in her life, is now completely converted. We left with four bottles. Minimum.
Pedro then got in touch and invited us to dinner at the Yeatman Hotel in Gaia. Lyndsay got out her “twice a year” fancy outfit, I put on a new Ralfi, and we drove 15 minutes down the Douro River into the city. The view from that hotel is absolutely stunning, and Lyndsay called it one of her favourite spots anywhere. The Yeatman is the only restaurant in the Porto area with two Michelin stars, and you could taste why: every dish was paired perfectly to the wine, explained in detail, and looked as gorgeous as it tasted. Quail. Pistachio cream. A cracker made of sugar and rice with rose petals and elderflower. We got to bed at half one and were absolutely shattered.
The next morning, slightly fragile, we went to As Pedro for lunch. If you come to Gaia or Porto, this is non-negotiable: you must order the sardines, and you must book in advance. It is a small place, always rammed, and everything coming off that grill is fresh that morning. I could not manage a dessert after the sardines, but the crème brûlée looked fantastic. Traditional, not toasted, apparently. Pedro and the owner are old friends, which made the whole thing feel even more special.
Camping Tamanco: The Site We Would Never Have Found on Our Own
After Istas Garden, we followed Pedro and Claudia south to Camping Tamanco, a site we would never have discovered by ourselves. It is genuinely like being immersed in nature: quirky, peaceful, full of character. Dave and Becky, the British owners, are brilliant, and Dave simply handed us his car keys and told us to borrow the Polo and go and explore the village. No question, no fuss. Just, here you go.
So we did. Sunday market, rotisserie chicken that was absolutely incredible, 29 euros for two chickens, bread, beer, and drinks for the lot of us. A winner. The campsite itself has yurts, table tennis, a pizza oven for evening sessions, and an honesty box by the exit selling wine at 5 euros a bottle. We put 10 euros in and took two. It seemed rude not to. A full pitch for the van with two people came to 33 euros a night, with extras per additional person. Book ahead if you can; they ask for a minimum four-night stay. Trust us on this one.
When People Change Your Plans (and You Do Not Mind One Bit)
This is the thing about travelling without fixed bookings. Yes, we had a rough plan. Yes, it is now completely out of the window. But Pedro and Claudia’s friends, the communal pizza night, the 5-litre bottle of red that appeared at lunch, George making his own pizza and absolutely nailing it: none of that was in any itinerary.
Lyndsay said it perfectly. She does not care about the plans. She wants more time with people like this. And that, right there, is exactly why we travel the way we do.
We are heading to Lisbon next. Watch the video to see the full Yeatman dinner, the market mooch, and George’s pizza triumph. If you enjoyed it, give us a big fat thumbs up and we will see you on the next one.
Watch the full video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nZmqeIcew